Zimbabwe: Garratts, diesel and electric locos

The steam still operating at Bulawayo and Hwange, and in Botswana represents one of the last concentrations of large steam locomotives in the world and is the last place in Africa where classic Garratts and 4-8-2s are still in use. Fortunately, in the past year little has changed and steam is likely to survive for at least a little while, but it is clear this is a temporary situation.

Click here for the new Garratt tour in 2007.

Always beautiful: the Victoria Falls bridge

Of course, you are welcomed by the president of the country - wherever you go ...

President Robert Mugabe is omni-present

Part 1: Railways & Steam

Hwange Colliery Co.

The Hwange Colliery Co. (HCC) was the subject of a full report in 2005. Only minor changes have occurred since then. In August 2006 Garratt number 12 was in service while number 11 was under repair.

A major change compared to 2005 was the visitor’s fees. They rose by 250 % to $35 US. You have to decide yourself whether it is worthwhile it to pay this amount to see a single locomotive under steam. Outside the yard and the washery photography doesn’t cause problems. But if you approach the colliery’s facilities there will be someone there very quickly who will ask you for the permit.

As almost with all companies operating in Zimbabwe, the HCC faces a massive and tragic loss by illness and death of employees due to HIV/AIDS. According to the HCC statistics there are 15 AIDS causalities monthly, on average. Officials claim HIV infection may have affected some 50% of Zimbabwe’s population while non-government organizations speak about 80%. The results are truly tragic.

National Railways of Zimbabwe (NRZ)

The state railway suffers from the lack of highly educated and trained stuff as well as spare parts. Anyhow, the situation has stabilized somewhat on a low level. Last year NRZ was able to make a minor profit after years of losses.

The lack of skilled workers unarguably has been caused by politics and also by the HIV/AIDs epedemic. Educated people started leaving the country in droves once the Zim dollar started its descent, white farmers were increasingly harassed and life as a whole had become more and more difficult. Initially, signalling specialists left for Britain, Botswana and South Africa; later plenty of signalling equipment was stolen. Eventually there were neither people nor equipment to operate a rather complex railway system like the Bulawayo hub. Consequently, nearly all signals in and around Bulawayo are now out of service and derelict with light bulbs missing, and copper wires stolen and sold. Operations are run by written orders or, if possible, wire. This, of course, requires substantially more time, doesn’t use the systems effectively and, most importantly, vastly increases the probability of accidents. Indeed and rather unfortunately, fatal incidents have been on the increase. Only in late August the Vic falls line experienced yet another collision between a passenger and a freight train resulting in many casualties.

To be able to reinstall a working signalling system NRZ needs more than skilled workers, they need financial support as well. Under the current circumstances both are hard to get in this troubled country. Therefore it is unlikely that the problems of unsafe, inefficient and slow operation will be solved soon.

The condition of the tracks is quite good although newspapers noted a big difference between the track condition in Zimbabwe compared to Botswana. Anyhow, a class 16A can run perfectly smoothly over the rails at speeds up to 70 km/h.

One of the most important changes since 2005 is the re-introduction of the international connection between Bulawayo (Zimbabwe) and Francistown (Botswana). The train, running three times a week, is well used by customers. The comfort for travellers is remarkable better than on the crowded and heavily-used buses which serve the same destinations. The local bus companies haven’t been amused over the new competition and have tried to stop the railway operation. People have loosened rail connections and put things on the tracks. Fortunately none of these attacks have been serious so far.

With the additional international train service the problem of having a sufficient number serviceable locomotives and coaches available has only gotten worse. As they have not the needed amount of foreign money, the railways are unable to purchase the needed spare parts for their diesel locomotives. With the new international service to Francistown they do earn some hard currency (the Botswana Pula is one). This money could buy some of the urgently needed parts and equipment for the railways. After long controversial discussions, and public announcements, they decided to purchase coaches, commuter trains and ten diesel locomotives from China. The big advantage of this deal: China doesn’t care about political situations and will deliver anything to anyone who pays in cash or offers access to raw materials like oil or precious metals. Zimbabwe is mining the latter. They know that other African railways experienced some problems with Chinese locomotives, but they do not see another option.

Electric locomotives of NRZ

Visits to depots for electric locomotives which are not at least 50 years old, is certainly not a specialty of FarRail Tours. Moreover, the electric locomotives of the NRZ have all of the aloof charm of a shipping container. They are a product of the late 1970s when designs featured many hard edges which had replaced the classic and much more curved and stylish designs of the 1950s. But, visiting the depot of electric locos in Zimbabwe does have a special charm. Most of them were put in service around the date of the independence (1980) and it was interesting to see what has happened to them. And operational electrics in Zimbabwe are now rare.

Beside the diesel locomotives which cover most of the traffic, the NRZ owns 30 electric locomotives. Since the political situation has led to declining foreign currency income, it become very hard for the NRZ to get the needed spare parts for their electric locomotives as well. They also face power shortages which make it unlikely to see an electric loco hauling the daily overnight passenger from Harare to Gweru. At the end of August 2006 five electric locomotives were serviceable, and four were in daily use. These five engines haven’t had a heavy overhaul for twelve years, which underlines the successful design and construction of these locomotive. The depot in Gweru planned to restore two more locomotives to operation shortly by taking parts from dumped locomotives. By the way, they have plans as they have for their steam loco fleet: they plan a recovery program with eight heavy overhauls. This plan includes all five serviceable locomotives, two more which should return to service soon and another one (4111).

The electric locos are based in Gweru. The depot was built for the locomotives and is still in good condition. The older diesel locomotive repair facilities are out of use since there is sufficient space in the new shed.

The NRZ have two repair shops for overhauls, one for line service diesel locomotives in Bulawayo, the other for shunting locomotives in Mutare. But the depot in Gweru is well enough equipped that they can carryout heavy overhauls on their own. Only for a repainting do the locomotives have to be sent to Bulawayo.

The decline of the electric locomotives is also reflected in the number of railway workers available. Of 25 fitters once working, only eleven are now employed and of 15 electricians only eight remain. These few people keep the locomotives running.

Beside the electric locomotives Gweru hosts 20 DE9 and 13 DE11 diesels. Three DE11 and six DE11 are in the workshop for overhaul. These overhauls can take quite a long time.

Diesel locomotives in Harare-Lochinvar

We could find almost no changes from our previous visit. It’s nice to see the walls of the loco foreman’s office still decorated with some pictures of Garratts. The following classes of diesel locos are based in Harare-Lochinvar:

Steam Shed at Bulawayo

Slowly the heavy engines left the shed, cylinder cocks open. The early morning light made the rivets of the front water tanks stand out. Bulawayo was back to life, was again a world we though lost after the last loco of Daban dropped its fire!

Anyhow, Zimbabwe is not China although you may find some parallels. In China time matters, the locos are almost always in a good technical shape, and a loco is fully serviceable when it leaves the repair shop. In Bulawayo many things are improvised, the final repair still needing to be done when the loco leaves the depot for a train ... lack of spare parts, employees with endless time ... One is keen to make the most of the situation, to keep the locomotives running. All this is combined with the factor of time. Time does not have any value here. It is the only factor that is believed to be free of charge and infinitely available (and considering shortages of materials, in an economic sense this might even be true).

The use of steam was planned to fade out in 2005. In 2000 management had decided to use the remaining steam locomotives only as long as their condition and the boiler certificates allowed. As boiler certificates last five years, 2006 should have been Zimbabwe’s first steam-free year. The last locomotives in service would have been 15A 386, 394, 395 and 16A 612. These three locomotives were not serviceable in August 2006. Although Bulawayo’s staff wanted to use 16A 612 beyond the expiry date of the boiler certificate (as it was a good steam maker), the boiler inspection brought it to an end as well.

However, a country that has become an international pariah and that is (officially) sanctioned (perhaps because it does not possess reserves) finds access to fuel difficult. The tourism industry has all but collapsed (for some good reasons, as explained below) and cross-border trade has shrunk to a bare minimum, of course due to the sanctions, but also because the country’s industry is in a shambles and unable to produce anything that can be considered good enough for export. Where can the hard currency to pay the fuel bill for diesel locomotives come from? A horrendous shortage of spare parts, more so for diesel and electric locos than the steamers, comes on top of all that. The NRZ management therefore decided to use domestic coal at least for shunting activities in the Bulawayo. Until then high quality heavy overhaul work was carried out by ZECO (Zimbabwe Engineering Company). The quality of this work has indeed kept the locomotives running until today. However, such overhauls are now carried out by the “P15-shop” of the NRZ, in totally inadequate conditions.

Key parts from the machinery for the maintenance work were looted at the time when the end of steam was originally envisaged. In other words: the proper infrastructure to keep the engines running is not fully in place anymore, but the Bulawayo crew is doing fine work despite all the problems. What they are accomplishing is quite amazing.

Core elements of current overhauls are the renewal of boiler tubes and bearings. However, the locomotives are neither dismantled nor thoroughly cleaned as was standard during the ZECO days. Spare parts are taken from the many dumped engines. All this, however, adds time to the process. As a result the NPZ do have pretty serviceable and complete steam locomotives that are even less prone to failures than the diesel and electric rosters of the NRZ. Detailed inspections, however, reveal some shortfalls: sometimes the regulator doesn’t shut (allowing for steam to leak from the cylinder cocks), small counterweights may be gone, the automatic door to the fire box doesn’t close without an extra kick, and other small problems that previously would have been fixed. All these shortfalls were observed on locomotives a mere three weeks after their major overhaul. While all this doesn’t matter that much for the performance of shunting operations, for serious line services such issues can develop into problems. After every trip a group of mechanics has to attend to the respective locomotive to make it serviceable for its next duty.

Nonetheless, they are still running and they will most probably continue to do so until Robert Mugabe decides to leave office or this planet.

According to the Bulawayo “Chronicle” newspaper, a heavy overhaul in the P15 shop costs only $15,000 US. The recovery program for ten steam locos was approved in 2005, in combination with talks to a South African tour operator who wanted to introduce steam safari trains from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls on a regular basis. The bigger picture was of course to earn foreign currency. Unfortunately, the steam safari trains never materialised, another tour company (re-)introduced diesel-hauled safari trains to Victoria Falls. Beside the use for specials, the decision included the use of steam for shunting duties as well as commuter trains around Bulawayo. According to the original plans the recovery program would include ten locomotives which should have been finished by the end of 2006. A more realistic date now seems to be mid-2007 – as long as there are no political changes that would very likely bring the end to the use of steam.

14A 510’s overhaul is still uncertain. Maybe 14A 514 will be taken instead, depending on the overall condition of these locomotives. 14A 510 would be good as this loco seems to be the last with the smaller water tank.

The rumour mill has even better news in store: After the ten locomotives have been repaired they might continue with another five. Tasks are aplenty in this country that is deprived of diesels. The loco foreman is hoping to get back the daily freight to Cement for his steam locomotives, as well as the commuter trains around Bulawayo and to replace the shunting locomotive in Thomson Junction with a steam locomotive. The first three candidates for the extended recovery program have been named already:

Besides this, 19th class 330 is waiting for overhaul in the P15 shop. This loco would be used for special trains exclusively. But, steam fans might have a dilemma about chartering a class 19 if they can have a Garratt, even though it is a very good looking classic locomotive? But, having said that, a high speed run with 330 at the front of some older wooden carriages would sure be nice to see!

The class 20/20A is not included in the recovery program as there are no freight train services planned with the freshly overhauled locomotives. These huge engines have never been beloved by the workshop personnel. On the other hand the railway was always very satisfied with the class 20/20A, as there was almost no train which this giant could not haul. Anyhow, a last one, 20 730, is still in good shape. It was said that only minor repairs are needed to bring it back into service. But, this was said in 2005, and nothing has happened. All they have done so far is a partly new painting of the motion. But now they want to repair the engine, for sure and say that when we visit Zimbabwe next year it will run. We certainly hope they are successful in returning it to steam.

All together there are still some 40 Garratts around the steam shed, rotting away on dump tracks and in the depot. What an amazing sight, but even with good will and the resources, it wouldn’t be possible to refurbish more than 20 of these rusty locomotives. Only 13 fitters and four boiler craftsmen are still employed, and the labour situation is uncertain because of the ongoing health problems that are so damaging to the country. It is a wonder that this talented little crew is able to restore locomotives under the present difficult circumstances. Presently they are not able to carry out serious boiler repairs, but retubing and replacing stays is not a problem as long as they can get the new boiler pipes. Beside the new stays and boiler pipes it is difficult to get other spare parts. So if they need a special part they check the dumped locomotives to see if there is a usable part they can find. They change everything if an improvement can be made. So there is a locomotive\ numbered ABC with running gear from locomotives DEF and GHI, while the boiler is from a third engine. You’re not able to find out the real identity of a locomotive by its number any more, as they are getting all mixed up. Bogies were changed at random prior to the commencement of the rehabilitation programme, when steam was thought to be finished. The number plates at the boogies have been changed quite often. An example: A 16A was numbered 608 at the one end, and 612 at the other end. At the same time there was another 16A on the track beside – numbered 612 at both ends. In August 2006 16A 61 derailed. As the emergency train crew removed the pilot axle with a cutting torch there was no chance to use it again to repair the loco. Instead they took the pilot axle from 16A 608 (or whatever is the right number). The numbers are a big mess and even the railway workers can’t identify the locos by their number any more. The numbers on the cabsides are mainly painted on.

All this means in short that Zimbabwe is a fascinating placed to visit to see steam in action and under overhaul in difficult circumstances. For anyone interested in working steam and the rebuilding of large locomotives, it is an absolutely fascinating place to visit.

Part 2: Behind the Scenes

A trip to Zimbabwe has many sidelights and is of course interesting from many perspectives. We’ve included some additional background on inflation, the availability of gasoline/petrol and some insights into the difficulties of the tourism in the country. These of course were not an issue for travellers on our tour, but they do make the advance arrangements challenging and interesting, and are a part of solo travel if someone goes there on his own.

The decline of the Zimbabwe Dollar

Against the backdrop of ongoing hyperinflation with average monthly inflation rates exceeding 60%, the government has replaced bank notes (i.e. “real” money) with bearer cheques, issued by the central bank. The denominations of such cheques increased rapidly until August 2006 when three noughts were cancelled and new bearer cheques introduced.

You can pay your breakfast bill separatly:

Four and a half million Dollars for a breakfast! photo: James Robertson

... or together with the group:		But if you want to pay your bill at the filling station you sometimes need more than 100 Millionen Zimbabwe Dollars:

The old bearer cheques had come in a maximum denomination of 100,000 Zimbabwe Dollar, an equivalent to US$0.40 (and a purchasing power of perhaps US$0.25 for tourists), and a maturity of March 2007. Since August 2006 there are plenty of new denominations, all the way from Zim Dollar 100,000 down to one cent. The exchange value of the new cheques thus ranges from US$0.00004 to US$400! Needless to say, the once ubiquitous Zim Dollar 100,000 cheque has become a rarity, as are all denomination smaller than one Zim Dollar 1 ...

The old Bearer Cheques have been used well beyond their expiry date because there haven’t been sufficient bank notes available. A couple of weeks before the old Bearer Cheques finally expired officials introduced roadblocks on all main roads. All vehicles were stopped. Drivers were asked whether they carried more than 100 million old Bearer Cheques with them. Sometimes you had to leave the car and the luggage was checked. Such a check rarely takes more than three to five minutes, but these senseless checks can bother you a bit. In Harare I talked to an official about using police resources for searching for almost worthless money.

Well, I was told, “one has to understand that criminal elements warehousing large quantities monetary of the old money have to be brought to justice in the interest of monetary safety and stability (sic!). Such controls are similar to the safety checks conducted at the airports as a matter of routine. Such little inconveniences are surely acceptable in the interest of safety.” I did not quite understand such logic. Who would warehouse huge quantities of rapidly depreciating stacks of paper.

As the Bearer Cheques expired, the old currency expired as well. Until August 2006 there were still banknotes up to 1,000 Zimbabwe Dollar around, although worthless in the last days of their existence. As we left Zimbabwe there was no valid currency any more, only Bearer Cheques! According to published news they planned to introduce a new Zimbabwe Dollar soon. But it seems this is much too early as you can’t stop inflation by just cutting four zeros.

Hints for the independent traveller

As a foreigner you need to pay in foreign currencies for accommodation. Meals and beverages may (still) be paid in Zimbabwe Dollars (i.e. Bearer Cheques). Although, if you stay in a medium or upper class hotel and add the meals to your room bill you have to pay in a hard currency. An example is the Holiday Inn Bulawayo: the breakfast was 15 US-Dollar (or a similar amount in Zimbabwe Dollars) which couldn’t be added to the room price. If you enter the restaurant in the morning and give the staff your room number on request, it’s already too late. If you want to pay in Zimbabwe Dollar your breakfast account will be transferred to the reception desk as soon as you said your room number. If you go there after breakfast you have to pay in a hard currency. But, this is not all. For transferring your bill from the restaurant to the reception, some 2 metres distance, they add another $2.00 US to the bill. Ok, you can’t pay in the local currency (of which you may have millions in your pockets), they force you to pay another $2.00 US along with the inconvenience of having to move to reception instead of paying in the restaurant. But then, if you give them a $20 US banknote you’ll get back the change in the local confetti currency! If you do not accept this they’ll explain that it is already in the computer and it can’t be changed back. As you’re unable to change money back at the border as well, this all reminds me very much of the times of compulsory exchange that some dictatorships used to have. There is another point. It’s not allowed to take more than 5,000 Zimbabwe Dollars (just 20 real Dollars) out of the country. So you have to spend all the money you exchanged – but it’s hard to spend it. Sometimes it is best just to give it away before you leave.

By the way, did you know that Australians are used to pay with Euros? The exchange rate board in the Hwange Safari Lodge is the proof:

And there are more measures to milk tourists. When you take a Zimbabwe registered car out of the country you have to pay road tax while entering a foreign country. So far, so good. But, when you come back with the car and want to re-enter Zimbabwe again, you have to pay another $12US for bringing the car back, called tax. Although the tax has been paid for the car already. You may say, this is not much, but it is the same amount a farmer would be happy about to earn in a month.

In the beautiful national parks it seems the authorities try very hard to further limit the flow of tourists arriving (that has already come down to a trickle) too. While this has of course never been the declared goal of the authorities, it is the result of officially sanctioned actions. In 1992 I paid 2 Zimbabwe Dollar as an entrance fee for visiting the Rodhes-Matopos National Park near Bulawayo. This was a bit more than a Germany Mark (for our younger readers ca. 51 Euro-cents). These days you can’t pay in Zimbabwe Dollars any more. White foreigners need to pay $15 US. Once you’re in the park and planning to view to the grave of Rhodes and visit the viewpoint called the “World View,” you’ll approach an empty parking area. Two locals are sitting in the shadows with a small till on a wobbly table. And – you may expect it already – they’ll ask you to pay another $10 US to continue. Because no one tells you what these robbers will ask you for when you try to leave this way you should not pay the extra fee. It is not a matter of price, it’s the principle. The money they charge you is obviously not for keeping the park in proper condition, for saving the environment, or for some infrastructure development, it’s just a rip-off. Only foreigners are forced to pay this additional fee, which was introduced May 1^st, 2006.

Zimbabwe’s game park, which is teeming the wildlife, developed a new system designed to extract the largest amount of money possible out of the visitor. Until December 31^st, 2005 you could spend the morning in the game park, having lunch in a lodge or another restaurant outside and enjoy the wildlife in the afternoon again. If you want to do this now, you have to pay the entrance fee (for foreigners of course US Dollars) again. So it is $30 US per day. In 1992 I paid 5 Zimbabwe Dollar (ca. 1,35 Euro) for the whole day. The only paved road in the park seems to be unattended by any maintenance gang since Britain left the country in 1980. The stream of additional money seems to go in special pockets here as well. If you want to hire a guide you need to pay $50 US per person, regardless how many people are in a group. In 1992 this was 16 Zimbabwe Dollars (ca. 4,30 Euro) per person only. So a game park guide is able to earn the amount of money per day, a local could earn in a year, if ever ...

I took a look in the guest book of the Hwange National Park, the most important one in Zimbabwe. No day saw more than 25 foreign visitors! The day we were in the park, only 25 visitors and four cars were there. Two of them from our group ...

Just to complete this information, in Victoria Falls the entrance fee is $20 US on the Zimbabwean side of the falls. Of course, if you leave the park for lunch you need to pay the entrance fee another time. Not so in Zambia, the entrance fee at the northern side of the Victoria Falls is moderate $10 US, with multiple entrances the same day included.

Filling your tank in Zimbabwe

In this regard Zimbabwe is well ahead of our times. If you want to experience a scenario possibly to be experienced by the western industrialised nations in the future, Zimbabwe is the right destination. Unless, of course, mankind can find an appropriate alternative to petrol without giving away any of our mobility. But Zimbabwe demonstrates how things could turn out if no alternative fuel sources or means of transportation are developed.

Filling Stations in Zimbabwe 2006

There is rarely any fuel, doesn't matter where you're going to, BP, ...		... Total ...



... or Mobil.		But here you'll get fuel:

Fuel is available in Zimbabwe, yes. But, not always. The further you go away from the capital and the further you are away from the borders, the less fuel is available. You may notice long queues at some filling stations. This is a sign that fuel is to arrive soon. Sometimes, people are waiting up to two days at a filling station after they heard a rumour that the filling station may be served with fuel soon. Bad luck for those who have waited all the time just to be told that the fuel will last only until the car in front of them has been filled ...

Even if the scarcity of petrol is not necessarily a taste of what is to come in Europe, the price certainly is. Converted into US dollars, you need to pay $2.60 per litre – if you’re able to get fuel at the filling station. On the black market, where petrol is available almost always, you need to dig a bit deeper in your pocket. Some $3.00 US or more is needed per litre. But as a tourist who is not familiar with the town, how do you find a black market dealer? How do you find someone you can trust, because it’s not a good idea to pour just any inflammable stuff into your tank if you don’t want to ruin your engine. Go to a filling station even if it’s clearly indicated that they have no fuel. Ask for fuel. The people at the filling station will stare at you as if you are coming from another planet. Are you illiterate? But hang on – tourists, they do still believe in Santa Claus. Make it clear that you just need petrol, not necessarily from the pump. Background: of course the filling station attendants do not sell everything they get delivered. Friends and people they know will get a call when fuel arrives. They’ll serve them, and fill the precious fluid in cans, multipurpose containers and, sometimes, everything available. Later on they sell it to people who need it, with a higher profit, of course. The attendants at the filling station will direct you to these people. As there is not fuel available at the filling station anyhow, and selling biscuits and windscreen cleaner doesn’t employ even a single vendor, an attendant will go with you in your car and show you, the needy car driver, the way to his friends. From hidden, secret places they’ll bring green, blue or yellow cans, plastic canisters and other containers. You should take a close look into these. Be sure of the way they are measuring the fuel. They’ll take, for instance, a 5 l drinking water bottle and fill it with the fuel before it goes via a funnel into the tank of the car. You should insist of such a means of measuring. Otherwise you may face lengthy discussions on the capacity of their rubber containers.

Fuel is also imported from Botswana and other neighbouring countries. Often by pick-ups full of various canisters. They cross the border to fill up (not just like that, the procedure can take two hours) – the car and everything that can possibly hold petrol. After another two hours at the border they return home, laden with inflammables, as “moving bombs“.. Because fuel is available in Botswana at a price of 80 US-cents a litre, even the sale at the state rates is a highly profitable business. This business has a limited future: political changes will kill it eventually.

For tourists with a hired car from an international company it is a bit easier. For cities where is no fuel available you need to ask your car rental agency in a city (Harare, Vic Falls) for fuel vouchers. In Bulawayo, for instance, you can go to an authorised filling station and you will get fuel instantly for the price of the car rental service. It is an upside-down world: with these vouchers tourists will get the petrol for $1.20 US, which is different to all the other experiences you may get in Zimbabwe as tourists always seem to need to pay much more than the locals. The idea of the vouchers doesn’t help if you plan longer safaris in the game parks. In this case you need to get the fuel from the hotel-operated filling station. No car rental service has contracts with these stations. But, you’ll get 50 litres per night while staying in the hotel, for the local price (i.e. $2.60 US).

Zimbabwe and Time

When we visited the Bulwayo steam depot on our first day we found 16A 611 derailed on one of the points in front of the shed.

As mentioned, the engine was ready. Even more, there was sufficient time for as trial run to Cement. Everything looked all right. As a matter of routine I went to the station master the evening prior to our scheduled special to confirm this. He mentioned that ha had just learnt of our special train and had given orders to assemble a freight with empty coal cars and a 1st class passenger car at the end of the train. This was not what we wanted, and not what was stipulated in the official letter from the NRZ.

My original order was shown almost completely. A normal Brake Van was requested. I asked him to make up our train as an ordinary goods train without any first class cars. We both then commenced to telephone around to different areas to try and find a Brake Van and some goods wagons for our train. After the train composition was resolved, and with the advanced hour of the day, we still had to enquire of the Depot if everything was in order there. The assistant Loco Foreman (ALF), confirmed that the 16A had been arranged and that everything was now in order.

The train crew were to arrive at 7:00am. The departure of our train was scheduled for 7:30. A starting time for the crew of around seven was clearly too late. This was also recognised by the very-helpful station manager who requested the ALF to start the crew earlier as well as, during the night, to turn the loco and fuel it ready for departure. He promised to do it.

The next morning, instead of going directly to the station, we went to the depot to check that everything was ready. There stood our 16A class, in steam and in front of the shed. Already turned and serviced with all supplies. But; two black areas showed clearly where the numbers should have been, and the yellow markings were still on the driving wheel counterweights. The loco foreman was also there and explained that there was no problem. And somebody actually then came with the plate “Nº“ and began to mount it on the right side of the buffer beam. Meanwhile two other workers came with yellow paint and a stencil for the number “611“. They proceeded to apply the number to the Fireman’s side of the beam. Finally came a third who, with black colour, brushed over the yellow on the counterweights.

As the departure time of seven o’clock neared, also came the loco driver with his tool bag. A few minutes before the scheduled departure time everything was complete and the locomotive set down slowly towards the station. With just some few minutes delay, the locomotive was coupled to its waiting goods train.

Now came all the paperwork; since the Signals were no longer working and available for controlling the trains, everything has to be by written instructions with hand signals. 50 minutes after the planned departure we were finally off, however we were only allowed one photo-stop before reaching Mpopoma station as we had to cross a passenger train there.

The train from Harare was crossed on the way to Mpopoma. Although we would have gladly made another stop in the best morning-light, we respected the orders and went straight into Mpopoma station where the previously advised passenger train already waited; although on another track where we would not have obstructed it (the section of the passenger station to Bulawayo has three roads). To obtain the written orders for our onward travel, our train captain now went to the signal box. After ten minutes he returned and said that we still had to wait for another train, before we could travel further.

Meanwhile, it appeared from the appearance of the sky that the time for sunshine photos would soon end. Also that the exact arrival time of the train we were waiting for, could not be ascertained. Therefore, we stood there and waited! After a while, the train captain said that it was for a track maintenance car from Nyamandhlovu that we waited.

Why was a maintenance car on the section; when the only train of the state railways running was earning real money? It was the maintenance car that was to follow our train in the distance and put out any fires ignited by flying sparks. But why was this requirement announced at the very last minute when, even if one forgets the usual central European viewpoint of time; for several months it was known that at 7:30am on this exact day, a steam loco would depart Bulawayo Station. And then, if this was not enough, the switch for our road was still against us. What came next was a diesel locomotive from the Harare train which had arrived in the passenger station, and now wanted to go over the Diesel depot.

These tendencies were not only darkened by the approaching clouds, but also that we, with our train, had to wait for all the light engines; as the engine drivers wanted to finish their work day and this was considered more important than photos of a goods train.

If we had been let go, the station would have been emptied and no priority light engine would have been held. But after the locomotive off the Harare train had crossed our track nothing changed. The switch remained in the turnout position! My blood started to boil! A quarter of an hour later the two diesel locos that brought the passenger train which we had crossed nearly an hour before at Mpopoma station arrived. Those that we had to hurry for and were not able to have an additional photo stop. To express it politely, the relationship between us and the train control personnel was now somewhat strained ...

We still came naturally to some beautiful photography, the train crew also played their part outstandingly. The locomotive ran very well and the train was arranged beautifully. Only with the sunlight was there any problem.

Luckily I had organised a barbecue at Nyamandhlovu, as a late lunch for the tour members (some of whom who had not been able to have the normal breakfast; but that is again another story); and of course our train and locomotive crew joined in.

We continued on in the afternoon to Deli. We were still able to take some nice photos in the beautiful evening light. When we arrived at Deli, a goods train was waiting there to cross us. They departed towards Bulawayo shortly after our arrival. After some pedantic discussion regarding train priorities, shortly after sunset we were ready to depart for the return trip.

A short goods train, likewise for Bulawayo, rolled straight into Deli as we departed. The consequences of this were immediately clear to me. If, in Nyamandhlovu, we wanted to take on water, this goods train would overtake us. Thus we would have no chance of being on time at 19:30hr in Bulawayo or at least in Mpopoma.

Why this was so important was so: at 20:00 the night train to Victoria Falls leaves Bulawayo, and goods trains have to wait for it. Therefore if we were not back before the Victoria Falls night train, we would have “half an eternity” to wait.

So I then spoke to the train crew on the possibility of preventing the goods train overtaking us at Nyamandhlovu. One said that this might be difficult but he promised he would speak to the dispatcher.

We reached Nyamandhlovu, after a quick journey, at 18:30. The loco took water there and exactly as the hose was taken out of the water tank and we readied for departure, the short goods train rolled past us! That was the end of our dream to reach Bulawayo on time.

The NRZ treated our train always like this, it was how the railways were. Now I wanted to find one of the train crew, that we could learn of the details for the remaining travel arrangements. Although I walked all around the unlit station, I could not find any of our train companions. At the end of the station stood a maintenance car but nobody could, or wanted to understand any English.

I then went back to the locomotive where the train crew waited. It was 19.40. The chances of being allowed to drive, at least to Redbank shrunk. Over the radio our train driver enquired. As feared, the passenger train had priority and we were to wait; at Nyamandhlovu. Schedule time for the passenger train was 21.10 hrs! Now it was clear to me where the train crew had been. They had gone into the village to have something to eat. If they had taken us with them, at least we would have had dinner also.

In order to expedite our return, we enquired in the Village for a vehicle that could take us to Bulawayo. The owner of the bar wanted to make it the business of his life. For the approximately 50 kilometres to Bulawayo in the rear loading area of a pickup, he wanted about US$400. That was not even a basis for negotiation. Thus it meant: wait!

As a suggestion to us, the loco driver mentioned that the goods train also had to go to Redbank, and would wait there for the delayed passenger train. However, we would have been at lease half an hour earlier in Bulawayo if they had let our train go as far as Redbank.

Fortunately we still had another full icebox with some “liquid food” and also fruit, etc. Muesli bars as well. The last radio call from the dispatcher, before the batteries went completely down, announced another 40 minute delay for the passenger train. Finally, at 21.45 we were allowed to travel on. We reached Bulawayo about midnight – the restaurant at the Holiday Inn closes at 23.00 hrs.

Time is a strechable term not only for the National Railways of Zimbabwe. Have a look at the notice at the Europcar office in Bulawayo "back soon". After 20 minutes waiting time I called an emloyee from Europcar on his mobile phone (which is very "cheap" to do so). All together it took him 65 minutes to be "back soon".

What's next?

From this experience one must ask oneself; how the NRZ would like to acquire further special train bookings. The treatment of special trains is as the lowest priority. That they believe the passengers on special trains can get along all day without meals. The lack of local information. The insufficient prior preparation (train make up and track routing with the stationmaster the previous evening, fire protection trolley on the day of the journey, etc.). These things only act to unravel any tourist activities.

But there are also reasons which justify further travel in Zimbabwe. The NRZ has fantastic locomotives which one can use in an almost unchanged environment to travel on the authentic routes previously used by their Garratts. The sound of a Garratt is unique! Zimbabwe is a country with impossibly friendly people. The beautiful countryside such as the Victoria Falls or various national parks are likewise well worthy of a visit. Right now the countryside is unimpaired due to the lack of tourism. But when the term of office of the current president, Robert Mugabe, ends, then the Garratts will also become redundant. Only some few locomotives will survive, only for use exclusively with safaris; but not in scheduled service. They will lie silently in the rolling stock park waiting where the trains are made up. Much as they have for 40 years. Whether the term of the president ends, through natural causes or by force (to have a democratic end would not be probable and would also be atypical for Africa) the fate of the Garratts hangs on the present shortage of diesel fuel and of spare parts for diesel locomotives.

One cannot push a trip to Zimbabwe into the distance, if we would like to watch Garratts on the front of authentic trains, travelling beside Victoria Falls or by wild game.

On the plus side in Zimbabwe stands – compared with many other African states – the relatively small criminal presence and the complete absence of armed gangs and paramilitaries as well as dubious road blocks, at which money is demanded.

Conclusion: the current possibilities of the country are of limited duration, therefore it is as so often occurs, visit Zimbabwe and visit it soon!

If you ever wanted to know where all the email spam is coming from ... As I tried to send emails from an internet cafe in Harare this came up: "The used IP-address is listed in the IP blacklist. So you're not allowed to send emails from this computer."

Zimbabwe: Garratts, Diesel- and Electrics