Survey:
The first winter trip of the travel season 2003/2004 to the Korean Democratic Peoples Republic (KDPR) brought many new insights into one of the least visited countries in the world. Although not all the envisaged photographic opportunities could be achieved, this trip can generally be regarded as a success. To realize the maximal possible photo opportunities we had to push the limits of what was allowed, was tolerated or was (still) impossible. At some times the discussions to take a photo lasted right until the last second, even in places where photography had already been officially approved .
A survey over the descibed lines:
The situation of steam operations in the KDPR has changed dramatically for the worse since February 2003. Various no longer used, sometimes still operational engines, have been sold to China where they will be scrapped in exchange for hard currency. The engines sold include rarities like at least one 4-8-2 and two smaller engines. Only a few engines could be identified by their numbers:
Worse still, the operational Mika 6083, used for our special train in Cholgwang in February 2003, is one of the engines to be scrapped. As we entered the KDPR we counted 17 engines in Sinuiju (at the border to China/Dandong), waiting for transportation to China to be scrapped. Another three steam engines where discovered being hauled by a M62 in the freight yard at Pyongyang. At the moment we’re trying to find out which Chinese steel mill will be scrapping the engines, so we can at least find out the numbers of the locomotives.
Here are the pictures of some of the mentioned locomotives:
"Scrapping" the steam engines had some consequences for our program. The decision to scrap the engines had clearly been made at short notice, because the Korean travel agency had not been able to inform us on time that not all the promised steam engines would be available. Cholgwang depot was entirely empty (We inspected the complete depot – including even the previously off limits sheds). The depot in the harbor town of Nampho was also completely free of steam engines. The only operational engine left in Cholgwang is Mika 6021, which hauled our special. Narrow gauge locomotive 505 was also spared, so she could make an appearance on our "mine" special.
The same picture in Kujang. Only a short time ago there were at least 4 engines of the Mika-class present. Only the torso of the non-operational Mika 6154 and operational 6112 remain. 6112 was consequently used for our train.
Rather surprisingly four out of five of the engines of the Mika-class, which had been "discovered" in Sinanju (Mainline Pyongyang – Sinuiju) in February 2003 (including Mika 6336, see gallery North Korea Transit train) were still there, although not in one line but on two tracks in the depot. Before the current energy crisis these locomotives were used on the non-electrified branch lines in this area. The engines don't look operational, although appearances may deceive, but they seem to be still pretty complete.
Hauling our special trains was clearly overshadowed by the aforementioned energy crisis. Due to a permanent power failure at Cholgwang, it wasn't possible for both engines to take water, because the pump didn't work. So in the night before our (already postponed) special should run, a power generator was brought in. But to no avail – it was to weak to generate enough energy for the pump. So they tried to bring in the water to the depot in Cholgwang with a tank lorry. The water was fed into the tender of Mika 6021 but again to no avail – it was leaking so badly that it lost all the water. In the night before our special was finally due to run at last they brought in another tank lorry with water and now the "plugged" tender proved to be watertight.
We cannot praise our tour guides enough for putting in those nightshifts on top of trying to "discourage" an eager group of rail fans from photographing at not approved places (nearly everywhere). The organization of the power generator, the necessary diesel fuel and a complete and running lorry under the current economic situation in KDPR is no mean feat. This situation– will it work or not and when might that be – wasn't easy on the nerves of the European tour organisator. For instance the last visas for three members of our tour group were issued the very last day before leaving Europe for North Korea and had to be delivered at horrendous costs by an express courier service to Belgium.
The energy crisis reared its ugly head even on the day of our special train with Mika 6021, when it had to "boil" steam after each runby. The "coal" used, which had a consistency of topsoil rather than real coal, probably hadn't even enough calories to be used for potted plants. It took three men on the loco and half an hour of shovelling to get the boiler pressure up for another photo runby. At the end of the day there wasn't even enough "topsoil" (or whatever you might call it) left in the tender to shunt the freight wagons of our special to an other track at the station of Cholgwang. The 6021 reached the depot with the last wisp of steam long after sunset. But it was sufficient to get some good pictures.
Our narrow gauge engine 505 on the other hand proved to be in good order, which despite its rather poor fuel (definitely not coal) always had a good boiler pressure. The track of the narrow gauge line towards the ore mine was checked and found to be in "good" order, so we could go further towards the mine than the last time in February 2003. And that was worth it – the narrow gauge line and the also the standard gauge line from Kwail (when entering Cholgwang) offered excellent photo opportunities.
Our third special train brought us to previously unchartered and forbidden areas. There you noticed nearly everywhere along the line that on one hand foreigners were a novelty in this part of the country (we caused some big gatherings of local people) and on the other hand taking photos was extremely difficult. It is already difficult in this country, but here it made taking photos in the eighties in the former republic of Yugoslavia seem like a piece of cake.
Our special train on the line Pyongyang (we had a permission to take photos at the main station in Pyongyang!!! – but alas it was dark) – Sinanju – Kaechon - Kujang was hauled by a rather new electric loco of the class "Red Flag". We tried to get an M62 for that train, but to no avail, so they promised to make that happen on the next FarRail-Tour in January 2004. We found a lot of interesting rolling stock in Kaechon but no steam engines anymore. Kujang has lost its steam engines to Chinas steel mills, with only Mika 6112 surviving. She hauled our train to Hyangsan. While the line to Kujang was already very nice scenic wise (tunnels and low rolling hills) it turned to a real beauty afterwards. The best photo possibilities (when the motorway on the other side of the river is out of view) with wooded hills, a tunnel, a bridge and some nice, small villages are within a military zone - so no photos allowed!! Before Hyangsan the line gets as nice again and here we got some nice photo runby's. After Hyangsan (where our train ended) the landscape turns spectacular. From here on the line heads right for the mountains. In Hyangsan we got some nice photos within the station (something not allowed on most of the other stations).
Between Kujang and Hyangsan three branch lines left the mainline. One standard gauge, non-electrified just behind Kujang heading west on a nice big bridge towards a small valley. Steam engines were used on this line. For quite some time no trains were running here due to the severe shortage of coal for the locos. It was said beforehand, that our special could run here, but shortly before our arrival the line was officially deemed to be unfit for running trains. A little further on the second line headed towards the east. It is electrified. The third line (which can also be found on the maps) 10 km south of Hyangsan was a narrow gauge line to Pukjin. It headed right towards the mountains (on a big bridge) but was already ripped up. No sights of rolling stock or buildings could be seen, only the bridge abutments remain.
Since our trip in February 2003 only a few new discoveries were made. For instance in Kaechon small, four axle electric locos were used for shunting services.
From the restaurant on top of the hotel Koryo you could risk a look inside the depot of Pyongyang (not allowed). Besides some electric locos of the red flag class we counted some 17 diesel locos of the Russian diesel loco class M62 (some of them Polish and Czech). Only one "electric" M62 was noticed here (during our tour we saw five of them). Also three DFH3 engine acquired from China were in the depot. Twin electric locos were found only at the freight yard and some used DF1 and BJ engines from China were also seen.
Urban transport within the city of Pyongyang is more or less unchanged since the last time. No Chinese built rolling stock was seen anymore in service on the metro, it could be found in different states of disrepair along the line towards the border with China on their way, like their steam counterparts, to the steel mills. All trains were run with former rolling stock from the metro in Berlin. The tramway and trolleybus system seemed to be unchanged. A welcome addition was the possibility to take a trip on the complete tramline up to the main station (not possible on our last tour in February 2003).
While passing through Nampho the first time, we noticed three trolleybuses standing still due to a power failure. That was somewhat better then the situation in February 2003 when apparently no public service was offered at all. Two days later the buses had disappeared but the catenary was blank, so there seemed to be some service still going on.
Trolleybuses were also operating again in Sinuiju. In February 2003 the condition of the catenary alone made operations impossible.
Since our last visit many more cars were noticed on the streets. There seemed to be at least more liquid fuel available for that kind of transport.
The following is no more than a list of what after two visits has become evident and can be confirmed by own observations. The limited sightings shouldn't fool anyone; most is still unknown in this country (except to the espionage services of the United States and Russia, who certainly have a full and clear picture of what runs where, but who either won't reveal such information or will only do this if large sums of money are paid).
Following normal steam operations can be considered confirmed:
1) Cholgwang
After a few year in which the line Cholgwang - Nampho has shown no traffic at all, this time we saw six freight wagons in the station. Inquiries revealed that Cholgwang is still served from Kwail. On look at the tracks confirmed this, as the rails were blank. It's unclear what type of motive power is used, it's however certain that our steam engine is used to shunt the wagons in Cholgwang. So the engine is not just there for specials but is used in normal operations now and then as well. This fact won't make anyone jump out of their seat, BUT: The head of the depot ensured us that after being forced to scrap some of his engines he is expecting at least two operational engines from other parts of the country to compensate for the loss. So it's not all gloom and we anxiously await what may happen here in the coming months.
2) Kujang
A short distance to the north of Kujang an electrified line branches eastwards from the mainline. This line runs via Changsang to Tokchon and further to the south. Near Changsang there are coalmines, which even today are in operation. The coal is transported by rail. The Mika of our special (6112) is used for this task regularly. Because the depot of Kujang has lost all of it's other steam engines (besides a Mika scrap engine no. 6154 and a numberless M62, for which dieseloil would be necessary), here too they are expecting new operational steam engines from other parts of the country. Steam is used here under the wire because coal is easy to get and cheap because of the nearby mines.
3) Sinchang
Sunchon is halfway on the mainline Pyongyang – Kaechon. From here a branch line goes east to Unsan. Between Unsan and Sinsongchon there are several coalfields, which are still in operation. The coalmine uses at least on of her two operational steam engines on a daily basis. The line is probably about 20 km in length. Four train pares are operated in daylight! Only: This region is off limits to the rail enthusiast (how secret are coalmines anyway?)
4) Sinuiju
De Korean border town near the Chinese town of Dandong surprised us with an unexpected discovery. Behind all the scrapped steam engines we could see a column of steam for the full two hours that the border inspections took. It looked as if one of the scrapped engines was under steam. After long scrutinizing from a far (of coarse there was no possibility to get any closer unless you wanted to look into the wrong end of a 7.62 mm rifle at the same time) we assumed the steam came from some type of stationary pipeline. Shortly before our departure however the column of steam started moving. It was clear: some kind of steam engine was shunting up and down the track. It was impossible to see what type of engine it could have been, due to three rows of freight wagons and scrapped engines. In any case it was clear: There are still normal steam operations in the KDPR. We will try everything to travel to all the places with normal steam operations as long as the last engine hasn't started its journey to some or other steel mill in China.
5) Manp'o - Ji'an (China)
A reliable source told us that the border traffic to China between Manp'o - JI'an is all steam hauled. It's not clear if there is a yearly exchange as in Namyang/Tumen. This is especially interesting because the Nelles maps shows most of this line to be on Chinese soil. The are as yet no sightings from the Chinese side.
A good Chinese map shows the narrow gauge lines Kanggye, Songgan und Dalizi - Chasong. The latter crosses (used to cross?) the Chinese border. There are no known sightings. here are parts of this map:
The narrow gauge lines from Hyesan to the north and northeast are electrified. Two pictures of this line can be seen in the railway museum. Here are the pictures:
Whoever books our trips to Korea should be aware that in spite of all the partial successes, these trips are organised and held with great difficulty. Operation by and photography of specific trains cannot be assumed certain. A refund cannot be given if things shown in the program don't work out as planned. A pioneering spirit is necessary, the experience and also the pictures will however be a valuable enrichment for those who dare venture into the last corner of the world.
Various reasons prevent us disclosing all the sighting, experiences and pictures. To ensure a further, if slow, opening of Korea to photographing rail enthusiasts we have to exercise caution. Requests for self made maps etc cannot be met with a positive answer. Questions like "have you seen an Ol49" are also futile, as such a sighting would have been the highlight of this article. Whoever wants to experience Korea for himself will simply have to go there himself. Anyone who want to go there on their own can of course apply to FarRail Tours for assistance. The necessary contacts can be established.
The care for tourists on this journey was perfect. This time here was sufficient food, the hotel was well heated, there was always a supply of warm water and electricity. It was also surprising that the amount of products offered in food shops has drastically increased. Many small kiosks along the street offered foodstuffs so that a cautious conclusion could be that the careful opening of the economy of the KDPR this summer is already showing the first positive effects on the supply of goods. Let's hope that this will continue to improve and that the energy crisis will soon come to an end.
The next tour to North Korea are already under progress. The next visit is planned for May 2004.
Something funny. The picture below shows the door of the last wagon of the train Beijing - Pyongyang and something in front of it. Is it pork?! The box was made in China.
