Übersicht
Due to reports about steam almost ending in Burma I thought about cancelling the tour ten weeks before departure. I sent a letter to all the participants about the possible lack of steam and that we could expect nothing for certain except the chartered train at Namtu. Everybody got the chance to cancel his booking, but nobody did. And that was the right decision! Shortly before we set off for Burma we were told that train 85/86 Bago - Mottama would run with steam on four days.
In general, the information we got, varied enormously. A change from "no steam at all" to "two trains with steam today" could happen within 2 minutes. Even talking with the loco foreman might not help discover what his locomotives would actually do. Everybody was very friendly, everybody tried to help us, but seemingly nobody would or could give either the full information or the correct one. In addition with the very difficult telephone system in Burma (should there be any at the location you are) it is nearly impossible to be sure for any operation if you do not go there and look for yourself.
First stop was Bago (Pegu). We met the loco foreman. Two locomotives were stored in the shed. He said he has only three locomotives in use at the moment. Due to the lack of fuel all locomotives were cold. The last train ran on February 4th, 2003, a teak timber train from Hlaingdet some kilometres east of Thazi to Yangon-Mahlwagon. The loco, YC 629, ran out of fuel in Yangon (Rangoon) and the loco was waiting in Yangon for a further decision. It was said that the loco would probably be brought back next day (February 19th) cold behind a diesel. Next day we met a fireman from Bago who knew me from a former trip. He said, YC 629 would come back to Bago under steam with a freight train and the station master confirmed this. A schedule was expected in the evening. In the evening we were told that YC 629 would start on February 20th at 8.00 am. Now it was difficult to make the right decision: Train 85 was scheduled with YD 962 at 6.00 am, stone train 658 with YD 964 had already left Bago at 5.10 am and YC 629 should depart at 8.00 am from Yangon. The most interesting operation was the YC on the main line. However, we decided to chase 85 for two, three stations and ask there for new information about the departure time of YC 629. We followed the passenger to Waw and got some nice shots. In Waw we tried to call Yangon. This was impossible via both, the railway network and the public telephone. So we called Bago, Bago called Yangon and handed over this information to Waw. Our YC was still waiting for departure, but no-one could say for sure when it would leave the station. OK, we headed to Abya. Same procedure, we tried to call Bago. Because the voltage of the electric power system was too weak we couldn't speak via the wireless to Bago. So we called Waw, Waw called Bago, Bago called Yangon, than Bago called Waw, Waw called Abya and - "immediately" - we got our information: no fixed departure time yet. So we went back to Waw to make some pictures of the stone train with YD 964. We followed it up to Theinzyak. Can you imagine, what happened there? Theinzyat was neither able to call Bago nor Waw. Same procedure again: We called Abya, Abya called Waw, Waw called Bago, Bago called Yangon and the same way back. Now they offered a new schedule, our train with YC 629 should depart at 12.30 pm. Because it became more and more difficult to get any information from Yangon the further we went, we asked Bago to provide information about the departure of YC 629 to every station at the Bago - Mottama line. Fortunately the train control of Bago agreed to do this! The new decision was to follow train 85. So we let the stone train behind and caught 85 in Kyaikhto at noon. In Kyaikhto they had a new information for us: new departure time was 14.00 hrs. If this would become true, the train would reach Bago in the best afternoon light. However, we didn't believe that this schedule change was the last one. So we followed 85 to Thaton and further, until sunset. 85 reached Yinnyein at 18.03, just after sunset.
We slept in Thaton and catch up new information from the station in the early morning: YC 629 still hadn't left Yangon but got a new schedule: 8:00 am (again). First we went to Mottama but were told that 86 is with diesel today. The reason was a delegation from Yangon to the depot of Mottama. They wanted to plan new trains together with the loco foreman. As trains 85/86 are not scheduled with steam any more (since December 2002), the loco foreman wouldn't risk his job to deliver steam in front of 86. So we went back to the stone train and caught it beyond Waw. On the way we asked about our YC again and were told that it left Yangon at 8.00 am! But the train was stopped at the first station after Yangon-Mahlwagon and was waiting for a clear line. As we arrived Bago (were we took another picture of the stone train) we found that YC 629 had already arrived in Bago. However, since YC 629 went in the bad noon light with the sun directly behind the train, we were not so unlucky with our stone train.
Back in the locoshed of Bago we were told that they got a single wagon with 7.500 gallons of fuel for their steam locomotives. So next day YC 629 was scheduled for a stone train to Taungzun at 1.00 am. We were not happy about the departure time and the short distance the train should ran. So we asked the loco foreman and the train control of Bago whether they had another stone train for the YC. Fortunately they could offer another stone train to Yinnyein, departure time 5.30 am. Nice people, as I already mentioned!
Next day the stone train was on time and reached Waw some 10 minutes after sunrise. We could manage some nice shots until sunset (in Hninpale).
We saw YC 629, YD 964 and 973. In addition, the frames of YB 501, 505, 509, 510, 521, 523, 545 and YD 971 were in place beyond the shed. The turn table is out of use for steam locos by now, only railcars turn there. However, if you ask the loco foreman in a polite way you may have the luck to photograph a steam loco on the turn table.
The locoshed is nearly out of use. Water facilities still working, a filling station for diesel too. The shed is staffed and home of the tank-like railcar DCA 8613. Dumped are: YB 516 (serviceable), YC 626 (under repair), YD 446 (out of use for a long time, a pre Second World War YD), ST 778 (dumped, nearly complete) and ST 768 (dumped, out of use).
We didn't visit this shed. There are at least 2 serviceable YD of which YD 962 is known.
We tried to make telephone calls to Taungoo and Pyinmana to get information about the sugar cane trains there. After spending 1.5 hours trying to get a connection we gave it up. If we wanted to know what was happening there then we would have to go in person.
The locoshed in Pyuntaza is a shadow of its former self. Only D 1032 (an MAWD) and some of these ugly, odd railcars could be found in the shed. All the other steam locos have disappeared (most of them are in Yangon-Insein workshop). The loco foreman pointed out that he lost all plans for steam locos in March 2003. The rolling stock for the passenger trains to Madauk are still in place. Railcars, totally overcrowded, are in use now. He didn't expect his locos back from Insein workshop. According to his words, steam is finished in Pyuntaza. But - see below - the timber train was hauled by the Pyuntaza based YD 974.
Taungoo (Toungoo) had operated sugar cane trains between Swa and Yedashe in the previous season. The 2003 sugar season ended about three weeks earlier than expected in early February and steam workings finished with the end of the sugar harvest. Both, YC 630 and YB 508 were used during the season. Both were stored under the shelter of the depot. M 364 is still plinthed at the entrance of the depot.
We asked for a telephone call to Pyinmana. We spoke to the train control of Pyinmana because the loco foreman was neither in his office nor at home. The control tower staff of Pyinmana stated that they still had sugar cane trains but there had been no steam hauled ones for the recent two weeks. One of the Taungoo's railwaymen listened to our telephone calls. He said that he was in Pyinmana on February 19th and that he saw steam there. But it was used for shunting and for the 2.5 miles to the sugar mill only. Another talk to the workers at Pyinmana brought out exciting news: some days earlier an empty timber train had passed Taungoo with a YD in front. This loco had to come back in a few days later. So we made another call to the traffic control of Pyinmana. Indeed, the teak timber train was expected to arrive Pyinmana in the same evening at about 5 pm. So we continued to Pyinmana as fast as possible.
We arrived Pyinmana at 17.15 hrs. First we went directly to the traffic control tower. The timber train hadn't arrived yet and wasn't likely to for the next few hours. We called the stations along the line. The train was still waiting one station north of Tatkon. Including the water stop in Tatkon the train was expected to arrive Pyinmana at 20.00 hrs. After arrival the locomotive was planned to be send to the depot for filling up with water and fuel and continue to Taungoo at 22.00 hrs. Scheduled arrival time in Taungoo was 3.00 am. This was the worst thing what could happen so we asked for a "scheduled delay" of some eight hours. The reader who never went to Burma should know, eight hours delay of a freight train is almost nothing on a railway, were even express trains are delayed more than 5 hours nearly every day. Unfortunately, it was said that there is no way to wait until sunrise.
Than we asked about the sugar cane trains. What a surprise: YD 972 went to Kyidaunggan as it did every evening! Departure was at 16.30 hrs, expected return time 20.00 hrs. The same was scheduled for the next day. As this was too late for pictures of a loaded train it was suggested we go to the locoshed. There it should be possible to arrange that YD 972 (or another loco) would be used for the morning shunting in the station and the sugar cane train to the sugar mill some 2.5 miles east of Pyinmana if we would pay for the fuel.
In the locoshed we found YB 533 and YD 967, both cold. YD 972 was expected back at 20.00 hrs. We tried to find the loco foreman but he was out to inspect a derailed passenger train. He was not expected back before the next day. So we spoke to the manager on duty. He said there was no chance to delay the timber train. We discussed several ways how YD 974 from the timber train could be 'persuaded' not to leave the locoshed before sunrise. No way. Then the manager on duty of the night shift appeared. What a nice surprise, he said, if there are some minor repairs to the loco necessary - and there are always some things to fix - he could arrange it so that the loco wouldn't leave the loco shed before 5.00 am. Of course, he had to give the workers of the night shift some donation to 'find' some things which need a repair ... We agreed, of course. It was arranged that he would give us a telephone call to our hotel when he is going to send the loco back to the station.
While discussing the timber train loco we found out that all the remaining fuel was to be given to this loco. The sugar cane train at the next day would have to be run with diesel. There was no fuel left even to arrange the morning shunting and the train to the sugar mill.
Because we didn't see a YB under steam on our tour we asked the manager on duty if it would possible to arrange the YD and the YB for a picture in his shed. I've to mention it again: very friendly people, they arranged a meeting of both locomotives in the loco shed for a very small tip.
A last check at the traffic control tower revealed that the timber train was to arrive Pyinmana at 22.00 hrs. We went to our hotel and waited to see what would happen.
Next morning, the timber train arrived at 4.10 am. So there was no reason to delay the departure by the manager of duty. However, he gave us a telephone call at 5.30 am to tell us, he will send the loco to the station at 7.00 am. The estimated departure is 7.30 am. I added the usually delay of Myanma Railways and expected a departure not before 10.00 am. We arrived the station at 7.00 am, YD 974 was waiting at the exit of the locoshed. Ten minutes later it went to the railway station, coupled on the timber train and fixed the vacuum brake pipe to the train. Immediately after the loco was coupled to the train the loco driver whistled for a free signal. The signal became green and the departure time of the train was 7.25 am. This was all but expected. Over the very bad and even worse road A1 Mandalay - Yangon we tried to follow the train. We caught it first time at the level crossing in Myohla, where a minor gradient gave us good sound effects. It is a rare experience on Myanma Railway's tracks to hear the sound of a hard working steam locomotive. We got the train several times more on its way to Taungoo, where it arrived at 15.00 hrs. More pictures of the timber train are here.
The timber trains started to run with steam in October 2002. Before they ran with diesel. Nobody knows who gave the order to haul these nice-looking trains with steam, however, we should thanks to this guy who created the most interesting steam train in the whole of south east Asia. The load was 18 wagons timber of each some 30 tons plus the van for the second loco crew and the train guard plus a brake van at the end of the train. The weight of the train is 600 tons. This is the maximum load for a YD on the mainline Mandalay - Yangon (while a six axle DF can haul 1.000 tons). The teak timber trains starting in Hlaingdet and terminate in Yangon-Mahlwagon. About every second week there is one of the timber trains with steam. The loco will stay with the train for the whole journey, often for a whole return trip. The steam locos can be supplied from any loco shed: Mottama, Bago, Pyuntaza, Taungoo or Pyinmana. The crew is from the same loco shed and stays with the train the whole time.
Our timber train stopped in Taungoo. There was no fuel to go any further. They had to wait from February 24th until 27th to receive a tank wagon of fuel to continue. The train started again in the late evening of February 27th and reached Bago on February 28th at 7.30 in the morning. I do not know when it finally arrived to Yangon.
This well reported (by Manfred Schöler and Bill Alborough) 2 ft gauge railway was the target of our visit. The Mandalay - Lashio road had been improved in recent yeara, especially after its privatisation. The branch road Hsipaw - Namtu is a narrow, sometimes unpaved way, which allowed an average speed of 30 km/h only. The ride Mandalay - Namtu took us about 11 hours including a short break at the Gokteik viaduct and a lunch. We stayed in the government guesthouse in Namtu.
Under steam were the known no. 13 and no. 42, both in very good external condition. The four plinthed locos in the depot are still in place with no additional effort made to complete the missing wheels, rods and other parts.
We booked a steam train to Wallah Grorge and a railcar ride to Bawdwin. The line offers spectacular views, especially around Wallah Gorge and behind on the way to Bawdwin. During our visit we saw 4 diesel hauled trains on the way to Wallah Gorge. Three were ore trains to the loading installation in Wallah Gorge and the other was a train to Lopha to load up with stones from the river. Beside ours, two scheduled railcars could be seen on the line to Bawdwin.
The freight transport between Wallah Gorge and Bawdwin ceased several years ago. The only remaining regular freights are timber transports between Bawdin station and Bawdwin timber yard. This timber is to be used in the shafts of the mines. A timber train can consist out of four wagons. Beside these, there are some very seldom goods trains to Bawdwin with mine equipment or something else which can not be delivered by road. These trains normally have only one to two freight wagons.
Steam service on the line finished in 1988. Charter trains with steam are allowed on the Namtu - Wallah Gorge and Namtu - R.L. Mill sections only. Both serviceable steam locos are still in regular use for shunting duties in Namtu and Namyao.
The mines railway has an extensive underground overhead wired railway. The Voltage is 250 V. They use four 0-4-0 electric locos. The locomotives use a bamboo pantograph! The underground system connects the mines from Wallah Gorge via Tiger Camp to Bawdwin and was the reason for the withdrawal of all ore trains between Wallah Gorge and Bawdwin. Exits are in Wallah Gorge and in Tiger Camp. The workshop for the 2 ft underground railway is in Tiger Camp.
The Burma Mines Railway is a very exciting railway which can easily compete with Darjeeling in both, cute locomotives and outstanding countryside. On our way we passed one spiral and two reversals. If you are a group of at least 6 persons you should not miss the railway. You have to plan it at least three months in advance to receive all necessary permits (Ministry of Defence, Ministry of Mining, Police). Planning via a local is easy but takes the same time Agent (if you need a reliable contact in Myanmar, send me an e-mail).
The workshop in the outskirts of Yangon still repairs steam and diesel locomotives. Some interesting information could be found.
45 diesel locomotives were in the workshop, only 7 of which were under repair. More than 30 diesels are waiting for spare parts. Spare parts are delivered by China, even for German and French locomotives. The problem of Myanma Railways is that they have to pay for spare parts in foreign currency. On the other hand, Myanma railways has no income in another currency with the exception of the very few foreign customers. They have to pay in Dollars or FEC (Foreign Exchange Certificates - only valid in Myanmar). Because there are no trains which can satisfy tourist demands, the income of that source is insufficient.
This situation is the one and only reason for the Myanma Railways to use steam until today. A steam locomotive is more expensive to operate than a diesel. This is only by comparing the fuel expenses, other expenses are not important to the railway. A steam loco consummate about 7 gallons of fuel oil per mile.
The workshop is able to produce nearly every spare part for a steam locomotive. Nearly all the machinery in Insein workshop dates back to 1942 to 1945. The installation is designed for repairing steam locomotives, not diesel locomotives. So it is easier for them to overhaul a steam loco than a diesel loco. A heavy repair of a steam locomotive takes about three months.
Myanma Railways has bought 10 second hand YDM4 locomotives from India. These locomotives got the Myanma Railways numbers DF 1268 - 1277. DF 1269 was in the workshop on February 28th.
The overhaul of steam locos will be stopped as soon as the problem of the shortage of spare parts can be solved. For 2003 three heavy overhauls on steam are planned. The first two locomotives are under repair: YB 534 with a scheduled date for a roll out May 14th, 2003 (plan of February 21st was March 14th!) and YD 961 with the tender of YD 970 without a fixed date. The number of the third loco is not determined yet.
The actual list of the steam locomotives in the Insein workshop:
| number | depot | repair | date of arrival | target date of complete | remarks |
| ST 759 | KWLN | HR | 09.03.2000 | 30.07.2002 | ready |
| YB 534 | MTBN | HR | 09.04.2001 | 14.03.2003 | under repair |
| YD 961 | PMA | HR | 07.06.1999 | no date | under repair |
| YB 529 | BAGO | NR | 09.04.1997 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 621 | PMA | HR | 20.02.1993 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YB 520 | MLG | NR | 07.06.1996 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 623 | PTZ | HR | 11.10.2000 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 622 | MPLN | NR | 04.04.2001 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 625 | MPLN | HR | 21.02.2002 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YB 543 | MPLN | HR | 21.03.2002 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 627 | PTZ | NR | 21.06.2002 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YB 536 | PTZ | NR | 21.06.2002 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YD 969 | PMA | NR | 27.08.2002 | no date | awaiting repair |
| YC 624 | PTZ | HR | 11.10.2000 | no date | off schedule |
| YB 532 | PTZ | HR | 11.10.2000 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 761 | TGO | HR | 21.08.1998 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 770 | MTBN | NR | 19.09.1996 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 774 | TZI | NR | 26.05.1997 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 762 | MOYN | HR | 07.03.2000 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 753 | KWLN | HR | 09.03.2000 | no date | off schedule |
| ST 772 | KWLN | HR | 09.03.2000 | no date | off schedule |
The locomotives listed in order of the actual workshop list.
The sightings:
| GB 822 | (Garratt) boiler |
| 3 scrapped frames | of YB/YC/YD |
| 2 frames | of unknown YDs |
| 2 boiler | |
| AS 144 | KWLN, HR or NR 3/90, 4-6-4 tank loco, nearly complete, green livery |
| GC 837 | Garratt, plinthed |
| LI 792 (?) | three wheel tender of a coal fired pre-war loco |
| ST 753 | minus rods, relatively complete |
| ST 761 | relatively complete |
| ST 770 | minus rods, relatively complete |
| ST 772 | nearly complete, minus coupling rods |
| ST 774 | nearly complete but in very bad condition |
| YB 520 | MPLN, HR Insein 3/90, minus rods, relatively complete |
| YB 523 | PTZ, HR Insein 5/95, minus bogie, rods |
| YB 529 | PTZ, various parts missing but in good condition |
| YB 534 | under repair |
| YB 536 | PTZ, HR Insein 3/96, complete, in good condition |
| YC 621 | without bogies, rods, cab, etc., only frame driving wheels, boiler remain |
| YC 622 | nearly complete |
| YC 623 | PTZ, HR Insein 5/96, coupling rods are missing, otherwise complete |
| YC 624 | PTZ, NR Insein 12.7.94, minus rods, else relatively complete |
| YC 625 | TGO, HR Insein 6/78 (!) for this date surprisingly complete, minus rods, very shabby |
| YC 627 | PTZ, HR Insein 12/94, nearly complete |
| YD 961 | MKPL, NR Bago 10.8.93, under repair |
| YD 962 | tender only |
| YD 969 | HR Insein 1/96 |
Available coupling rods in the works:
YB 508, YB 532, YC 623, YC 624, YD 969
Roads are in poor condition as before. However, improvements are made every ten kilometres. The reason: many of the main roads were sold to (altogether ten) private companies in 2002. They got the right to charge a toll fee. This fee is 200 to 500 % higher than before, as all roads were owned by the government. The companies, who bought the roads for almost a knock down price, are mostly operated by the military leaders of the country. So the interest in railways and new railway lines seems to be decline. They have already announced a project to build up a new four lane highway all the way from Yangon to Mandalay. This is the most profitable line of the railways. If there will not follow improvements on the tracks and coaches, the railway stands short before a massive loss of traffic, income and future.
Another big construction work (already under progress) is the bridge Mottama - Moulmein. This bridge is designed for road traffic only. In recent years we often heard about the plans to rebuild the death railway Myanmar - Thailand line over the Three Pagodas Pass. If there is no plan for use the new bridge for both, railways and roads, it seems the government has already lost their interest in the first international railway line to Thailand.
Two other differences to my former visit are worth mentioning: The best beer in Myanmar is now the Myanmar Beer. In 1999 it was Mandalay Beer. Prices rose to 1600 to 2000 Kyats for one bottle. 1 Dollar is about 950 Kyats (on the black market, the official rate is still 1 Dollar = 6 Kyats).
Myanmar is well on the way to becoming the usual dirty Asian country. Because many people can afford "modern things" like plastic bags, rivers and streets are much dirtier than before.
The usual income of a railwaymen is between 5.000 and 10.000 Kyats (i.e. five to ten Dollars per month). Employees of Government enterprises get basic food stuff (rice, sugar), electricity and flats for free. Employees of private companies get nothing for free but earn between 15.000 and 150.000 Kayts per month (i.e. 15 - 150 Dollars). In the tourism business, clocks run faster: A bus driver will earn the same amount as normal employees of private companies, but they earn about 1 Dollar per day and plus personal tips from their groups. Normally they will have about 300 Dollars per month during the tourist season (European winter). A co-driver earns about half as much as a driver. Tour guides earn about 200 to 700 Dollars per month, excluding tips. Please consider, if you think about tips. 10 Dollars for a loco driver will more than double his income!
Our guide was Mrs Kyi Kyi Myint from Bago. My warmest recommendation. No fax, no e-mail, but telephone: office: 0095/52/22275, res.: 0095/52/23891
If you fancy going to Myanmar for steam you should have the same patience as the Burmese have. Despite this, you will need plenty of time to wait for trains, fuel, information and so on. There are no regular duties for steam any more, there can even be two weeks without any steam locomotive movement. Bago - Nyaungkhashe and Pyuntaza - Madauk are lost to railcar service. Re-introducing of steam on these branch lines seems to be off limits. There is no hope for 86/85 to return to steam too. You can hope for stone, sugar and timber trains only. Loaded sugar cane trains in Yedashe and Pyinmana often (mostly) running in darkness. So if you go for steam, do not expect too much. Enjoy this beautiful country and its friendly people, but do not be angry if you see nothing except diesels and if you're not able to find out when and where a steam train will depart.
Accommodation is possible at least in Yangon, Bago, Kyaikhto, Thaton, Mottama (very basic), Nyaunglebin, Taungoo and Pyinmana. For Namtu you need three special permit. As an independent traveller you should expect several controls if you go there. Steam locos are not always in use there and a photo permit is essential. Photo permits are required for pictures of the government railway too. But nearly nobody is interested to ask you for it with the exception of the loco depots. Here you can buy a permit from the loco foreman.
Taxis are easily available in Bago. You can ask in the hotel of your choice.
Food is best (in my opinion) in Chinese restaurants.
Supplement for air-freaks: The airport of Yangon is boring, the airport of Mandalay a newly built, much oversized building, the airfield at Bagan (Nuang-U) has an asphalt surface which competes with the "quality" of the main roads A1 and A2. However, the airport of Lashio is worth a visit. Wood/bamboo check-in "hall", the same for the luggage inspection, no x-ray machine anywhere at the airport, no metal detectors or other unnecessary equipment. Really nice to experience the 1950s way to fly in 2003.
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If you fly by Myanma Airways you should be prepared for heavily delays á la Myanma Railways. Even cancellations can happen.
